Step-by-Step Tutorial: Creating 3D Embroidered Roses with an Intriguing Needle Weaving Bar Stitch Variation

 The "needle weaving bar stitch" technique is an embroidery method that produces woven patterns on fabric surfaces. 

To begin, two parallel straight stitches are created on the fabric, leaving a slight gap between them. These initial stitches establish the foundation for the weaving process.
Afterward, a separate thread is employed to weave back and forth between the two parallel stitches. This involves passing the thread over one stitch, then under the other, followed by reversing the direction—going over the second stitch and under the first. This weaving sequence repeats until the woven pattern takes shape.

Today, I'm thrilled to share a new and exciting 3D embroidery technique with you. It's a playful twist on the Needle Weaving Bar Stitch method, which I call the 'Free-Standing Needle Weaving Bar Stitch.

This technique produces a strip that is woven using a needle and can stand independently from the fabric.

It operates as follows: I secure the warp threads to the fabric with small safety pins.

Later on, similar to the traditional 'Needle Weaving Bar Stitch,' I weave back and forth between the warp threads.

However, the true magic happens when, after completing the weaving process, the safety pins are removed, revealing a standalone weaving bar.

In this tutorial, I'll guide you through crafting 3D embroidered roses effortlessly using this captivating technique. Let's start right away, shall we?

I carefully stretch my fabric onto the embroidery hoop. This fabric will serve as a temporary base solely for my weaving work.

I have three small safety pins that I fasten onto the fabric, as shown in the picture.

I position two of the  safety pins side by side with a gap of 5-6 mm between them at the top. 

For the third pin, I place it about 2.5-3 cm below, aligning it in the same plane as the rightmost  safety pin from the top two.

I thread my needle with a dark pink thread and tie a firm knot at the end.

 Then, at a point further away from the weaving area, I bring my needle down to the back of the fabric. I pull my thread all the way through, leaving the large knot on the fabric's surface.

 You can see the knot in the image above.

I insert my needle from the back of the fabric to the front, emerging from a point located approximately 5-6 mm to the left of the lower safety pin. Then, I pass the needle to the front of the fabric and pull the thread all the way through.

I use a thick-tipped tapestry needle while working.

 Now, I pass my needle underneath the top two safety pin wires without entering the fabric.

Afterward, I guide my needle under the wire of the lower positioned safety pin. I pull the thread all the way through, completing the two foundational warp threads in this manner.

From the left side, I approach with my needle and pass it under the warp thread on the left.

 Then, I pull the needle upwards through the gap between the two warp threads, ensuring the thread is taut. 

After that, I move to the right side, inserting the needle under the warp thread on the right and pulling it upwards through the gap again. 

I repeat these weaving motions alternately, steadily advancing towards the end of the warp threads.

While weaving,I keep the side of the needle in a horizontal position and use it to delicately guide the rows I'm weaving downwards, resulting in rows that are more evenly aligned.

I've finished my weaving quickly. Now it's time to separate the woven piece from the fabric.

 First, I cut and remove the large knot I left on the fabric. Then, I take out the safety pins that were holding the warp threads in place on the fabric.

There's nothing left attaching my needle weaving bar stitch to the fabric. I grasp it from the top and pull it upwards, and voila, here's my free-standing needle weaving bar stitch! 😊

I proceeded to weave additional bars, enough to form a complete rose. I've crafted my woven bars in three different shades of pink, and now they're ready to be used! 

I pick up the first woven bar. This bar will form the center of the rose I'm creating. I don't cut off the threads hanging from both ends; they will be my stitching threads as I attach the woven bar to the fabric using a needle.

I thread my needle onto one of the thread tails. Inserting the needle into the fabric at the intended center of the rose, I guide it down to the back of the fabric.

Pulling the thread from underneath, I align the end of the woven bar with the fabric. I then secure this end of the woven bar to the fabric by stitching it in place.

I gently shape the woven bar into a rolled form, creating a smooth spiral by wrapping it around itself. The end that I stitched serves as the center of the roll.

 As I shape the woven bar, I use my needle and fingers to support it, ensuring a neat and even spiral shape.

I thread the remaining thread tail from the other end of the woven bar onto my needle and pass it to the back of the fabric. 

I thread a single strand of the same-colored thread onto my sewing needle. Using hidden stitches, I securely attach the rolled woven bar to the fabric, ensuring it is firmly in place.

Now, I'm working with the other three woven bars, each approximately 2cm in length. These bars are woven in a slightly lighter shade of pink compared to the first one.

I position these bars around the center of the rose, using the dangling thread ends to secure them onto the background fabric. 

As seen in the images, these bars will become the rose petals. When arranging them around the center, I overlap the ends of the bars in a sequential manner.

I start forming a new circle consisting of 5 petals around the circle formed by these three petals. I begin with the first of these 5 woven bars. These bars are 2.5 cm in length, and I wove them using a lighter shade of pink.

I continue securing the woven bars to the fabric in a sequential arrangement that encircles the rose, using a needle and thread.

When attaching the 5th bar, I follow this approach: 

I attach one end of the woven bar by sewing it approximately 5mm inside the area covered by the first bar on the fabric. I make this stitch on the fabric between the two layers of petals.  For the other end, I sew it slightly overlapping onto the outer edge of the 4th bar. 

This results in a more pleasing appearance.

 The images below give you a visual walkthrough of how I do this step.

And there you have it, my rose is complete! It turned out quite easy, didn't it? 

Now, I'm adding two leaves to the edges of my rose. I secure these leaves to the fabric using the leftover threads from weaving. Of course, I only stitch their bases, leaving the tips free.

 If you're new to 3D embroidery, this neat trick will make crafting roses a breeze. 

If you're interested in a 1-minute short video showcasing the process, you'll find it right below.

And that's it for today! I really hope you had a blast following along with this tutorial. Hopefully, it's given you some exciting new ideas for your future embroidery projects. 

Oh, and by the way, there's another tutorial video just a bit further down the page. It shows a different 3D embroidered rose design created using the same technique.

 Feel free to check it out!😊